As for New Year's Eve - well, we were pretty pooped after our night on the town the night before, so we hung low and had a low-key evening...but it was nice. apparently this city is the place to be if you want to party on New Year's Eve (some discos even had bands/DJs flown in from Dubai, and Europe!)! too bad we weren't in the mood for it last night!
Ok, so back to the trek (i'll try to keep it brief)...
Day 2: "Doctor on-call"
Tumling to Kalapokhri - 13 km/8 mi Elevation gain 150 m.
Aaaah, do not be fooled by the minimal elevation gain on this one! We started the day going DOWN about 500 m, and then up about 650m (for your people still not on metric, that's around 2000 ft).
It was a beautiful walk which took us through small villages in Nepal and then through the Indian side as well. The evening brought us to a village called Kalapokhri (means "black pond") where we stayed with a family from the Sherpa Caste. We spent the evening in the family living space which was decorated with newspaper clippings, trying to shield ourselves from the blowing cold outside. There was no electricity and no heating in the rooms - just a small woodstove in the kitchen. Had a lovely time trying to chat with the owner's parents - one of whom was hard of hearing and a bit tipsy on the local homebrew (Tomba = fermented millet)! my broken Hindi came in handy...they mostly spoke Nepali, but spoke some Hindi as well...so we had a common language we could both partly speak!
Unfortunately our guide Arpan became quite ill that day - but fortunately i had a flashlight to help with my medical examination of him that evening! Looked like strep throat, and we had some appropriate antibiotics on-hand which he started...but unfortunately it didn't do the trick soon enough, because the next day he left us and a new guide was sent up from our trekking company to join us. poor Arpan :-(
picture: dad from the family and his Tomba

Day 3: This One is Quite Up
Kalapokhri to Sandakphu - 6 km/4 mi and lots of elevation gain
Hi everyone - it's Jen again. Happy New Year!
So, this day involved a "simple" 6 km walk that finished with a brutal uphill - "this one is quite up", in the words of our guide. The reward for all this is a great view of the mountains.
Ashifa, conquering the Himalayas:
Our first glimpse of Everest:
Kanchenjunga looming over the village of Sandakphu:
The village of Sandakphu doesn't consist of much besides trekkers' lodges and an Indian Army outpost. We saw several Army outposts along the way since the road comprises the border with Nepal. During Nepal's recent civil war, they were a little more active. Now they have to be among the most boring or peaceful places to be stationed in the world, depending on your perspective. Sandakphu was also the first place within a few days' trek where there was cell phone reception. There was one small spot in the middle of the village where there were about 10 people gathered around - you had to hold your cell phone just right, horizontally, and yell down into it. Because of the views, Sandakphu is a popular stopping point for not just trekkers but also those who want to endure the drive up by jeep.
Our lodge was a loud and busy place that night (the fact that the lodge sold whiskey may have contributed to this). Our new friend Debojit (that's him next to me in the pic) thankfully clued us in to the importance of the wood stove in the common area of the lodge. We were at a pretty high altitude by now, so the nights were very cold (almost Canada cold), so we were lucky to get good seats for an evening of socializing around the stove. We met several really interesting people from all over India. The conversation (despite the whiskey) was a bit higher level (Indian politics, the work of various non-profit agencies in India) than our usual fun fireside chat (favorite Bollywood star, the climate in various parts of the world, what time people eat dinner in different countries).

Day 4: Kanchenjunga By the Toe
Sandakphu to Phalut - 21 km/13 miToday we reached Phalut, after a long 21 km hike from Sandukphu along an isolated stretch of trail along the ridge. We had the closest views of Kanchenjunga that can be had from these foothills. It was quite breathtaking! We also had a great view of Everest the following morning once the fog cleared! they say a picture is worth a thousand words, so here goes!
Kanchenjunga - 3rd highest peak in the world:

me and Jen with Everest in the background:
Hi, Jen again.... filling in for Ashifa (one of us has finally succumbed to Delhi Belly). Day 4 was also Christmas day. Despite the lovely views and fresh mountain air, it was really sad to not be home for Christmas. Angelika and I appeared to be the only Christmas-celebrators in the bunch, so we toasted with Coke next to the fire that night at the trekkers hut.
Day 5: Oooh, Toes (or, What Goes Way Up Must Come Way Down, Although I Don't Think It's Necessary to Do It This Quickly)
The day started with one of the best views I imagine you can have. We climbed up to the highest point in Phalut and had a fantastic panorama of Kachenjunga right in our face and Everest and friends in the distance. It was really just breathtaking and we found it hard to leave, despite the fact that it was windy and freezing and 6 a.m.
Phalut to Ghorkey - 15 km/9 mi and 1300 m/4300' evelation drop
The day started with one of the best views I imagine you can have. We climbed up to the highest point in Phalut and had a fantastic panorama of Kachenjunga right in our face and Everest and friends in the distance. It was really just breathtaking and we found it hard to leave, despite the fact that it was windy and freezing and 6 a.m.
Below is the trekkers hut in Phalut - the most "rustic" of our accommodations on the trip. The numerous men trekking that busy day were very chivalrous and allowed us three women present to have one of the two private rooms, while they took the dorm beds.
After tearing ourselves away from the view, we started off on the shortest leg of the trip. Only three hours. However... in that three hours we dropped about 1300 m/4300 ft. Yes, it was nice to be going down for a change, but it was a serious knee-killer. Our day ended at the small village of Ghorkey. There were about 30 homes built onto the hillside amidst terraced fields. The economy here is pretty much agriculture and tourism. They had just harvested corn and were planting potatoes for the winter. The woman in the second picture was chopping some kind of root vegetable whose name I can't remember. In the tradition of sauerkraut and kimchi, it's one of those things you let ferment (rot?) for awhile and then eat as a delightful(?) sour dish. Our guide made sure we got some with our dinner that night.
Dr. J, Wilderness Doc, was called into duty again in Ghorkey. A couple of very nice and, I'm sure, very earnest guys from Kolkata had arrived to stay for a few days to "help these people" of Ghorkey. There are no medical services in the village, so they had brought various medicines that they were going to distribute. Unfortunately, they didn't really know what all the medicines were for. Fortunately, they met Ashifa before they did any damage to anyone. She wrote a lot of notes for them and hopefully the do-gooding turned was good.
Ashifa holding office hours and attracting a lot of attention:
Our lodge in Ghorkey also gave us one of our first chances to break free of the trekking trifecta of rice, dal (lentils), and aloo (potatoes). The omnivore has no dilemma on this trek. Anyone who knows me knows I love a good potato, but five days in a row is really enough. So.... it seems yaks are high-altitude dwellers and are common in this area - and I have to say they also make a tasty curry (sorry, Ashifa and fellow vegetarians).
Days 6 and 7: Back to Civilization
Ghorkey to Rimbick - 18 km/11 mi, then one scary 3-hour jeep ride to Darjeeling
The last day of the trek, and it was a long one. More downhill, although not as steep as the day before, with a few painful uphills thrown in just for fun. We also got to hike through a road construction zone - about a kilometer of road being built with rock - all being done entirely by hand, mostly by guys in sandals - busting rocks, moving rocks.
Six hours later we ended in a palace of a trekkers lodge - the primary feature being HOT SHOWERS! We were both completely done by this point - aching legs - but very, very happy. The next day we endured two insane jeep rides - first, 3 hours back to Darjeeling. Then, after getting the rest of our gear, another 4 hours to Siliguri in a "shared jeep", the local form of mass transit. Our jeep held 13 people most of the way - down the same hill we had ridden up in the train a week or so earlier. The train was, by far, less scary. It was all a rather brutal reintroduction to civilization after a week in peace and quiet with fresh air and sweet people. Honking horns, diesel exhaust, people everywhere.... We checked into the first decent hotel we found in Siliguri, collapsed onto the bed, drank tea, and watched cricket and the latest Bhutto assassination conspiracy theories.















